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#1
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Quote:
You could have been an outside consultant on "Blue Crush." How far off were they in the movie anyway? Did you line up some large Samoans to help out on "Kill Haole Day" in school?
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FKA, Inc. transcribed by: Rick Iossi |
#2
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Rick,
10 - 15 foot is 20 - 30 foot over here. 15 foot was my limit, although I went out at Ehukai when the beach was closed and Pipe was shutdown because of to much north in the swell. I still have no idea how big it was the day I went out at Ehukai, I just know that I was a little short on my board selection that day by taking some late drops. The 3 guys in the line up were allowing me to take this huge set, I guess they thought I was going to get pounded by going over the falls with my short ass board. I made it and it was the biggest barrel I have ever been in. High School wasn't bad, I alligned myself with some of the biggest samoans at the school. I was treated as an equal unlike most military kids who show up and show disrespect and then get there ass beat. I had a chance to surf was some of the best surfers back then. Mike and Derrick Ho, Liam and Garrett McNamara, Gerry Lopez, Tony Moniz, Mike Stewart, the list can go on. I have some really good stories from surfing the North Shore. Lots of good memories too. Sometimes I will sit back and think of a time I went out at Pipe and then I will put my self into a anxiety attack. I still don't know how I survived some of those wipe outs. I will post more of the Chris Moore Chronicles another day. -Chris |
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