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#1
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Wave lust can sometimes take a toll ...
From: http://www.pipelineposse.com/rostrum...914204634c.jpg Photo by Unknown Jason Frederico goes down hard at Pipeline From: http://www.jpgmag.com/photos/252456 Photo by: Phil Mislinski Randall Paulson punches out at the 2004 Rip Curl Banzai Pipeline From: http://www.surf-art.com/gallery/c0070-20.jpg Photo by: Unknown Greg Knoll and Mike Strange take the plunge at Waimai 40 years ago From: http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/200...MP_800x692.jpg Photo by: MMP Sponger getting sneak attacked by 50 ft. wave off Cornwall? From: http://www.surfersvillage.com/img/st...efall26103.jpg Photo by: Karen Wilson Darryl "Flea" Virostko of Maverick's fame pursues unaided flight over warmer waters Despite that, we keep coming back for more. Must be something in the water?
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FKA, Inc. transcribed by: Rick Iossi |
#2
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It is amazing that anyone could ride down the face of such a steep wave and with a long board. Hats off to Greg Knoll! What is the largest wave that has been surfed in Florida do you think? The largest one I have seen in recent years was over 15 ft. but well offshore while kiting. What is the largest one that someone has paddled (or towed into) here?
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FKA, Inc. transcribed by: Rick Iossi |
#3
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Rick,
I remember when I use to surf Pipe, Log Cabins, and Waimea that no matter how bad you got punished out there it was the wave that you conquered with your buddies watching. That always brought me back for more punishment. I still don't know how Greg Knoll took off with a long board at Pipe. It was hard enough on a 6'8" board at 12 to 15 foot pipe with a lot of North in the swell. It was like standing on a roof of a 30 foot building and it would just fall out beneath you. Brings back some memories
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-Chris "We don't stop kitesurfing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop kitesurfing." http://www.gulfcoastkiteboardchallenge.com |
#4
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Hey Chris,
That is some intense stuff. Were you ever bounced off the rock bottom at Pipeline? Your analogy of standing on a three story building as it collapses beneath you is telling. Bet you guys get swells like this frequently off the Bay area. Well, maybe miles out in the Gulf during hurricanes? Just came across an interesting clip with some historical big, massive wave footage from Hawaii titled "Greg Knoll Legacy." He definitely is the man.
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FKA, Inc. transcribed by: Rick Iossi |
#5
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Rick,
I have a nice scar on my back from collapsing a lung out at pipe one day. Funny thing is I don't remember which wave it was that caused a bleb on my lung to burst. When I got home that night I had a hard time breathing and I felt air bubbles under my skin every time I took a breath. Went to Tripler Army Medical Hospital and 60% of my left lung had collapsed. I always wore a helmet when I surfed pipe, I saw plenty of guys hitting their head on the reef there. Still good times and lots of vivid memories.
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-Chris "We don't stop kitesurfing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop kitesurfing." http://www.gulfcoastkiteboardchallenge.com |
#6
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Hey Chris,
Yow, that was some impact to rupture a bleb. Worry about bleb ruptures, if present, causing a pneumnothorax in diving. That is some intense surfing. Do you have any photos of you riding some larger waves in Hawaii? Sounds like prime POD content.
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FKA, Inc. transcribed by: Rick Iossi |
#7
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Quote:
The photos I have a from a far distance. Underwater cameras weren't cheap back then and then trying to convince a friend to swim out in large surf to take pics of me was hard to find. I do have an incredible pic of me body surfing at Sandy's on Oahu's east side. I will find it and post it soon.
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-Chris "We don't stop kitesurfing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop kitesurfing." http://www.gulfcoastkiteboardchallenge.com |
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