Race Kiteboards

[Russky]

I'm thinking of getting a race kiteboard.
Not that I race professionally, but just for fun I like to give pros hard time sometimes ...

Searched around and got confused with vast variety of board shapes and straps/fins configuration.
[I guess, everybody is still experimenting with what works best for races]

See some images attached.
[I didn't find any pix of new Jeff Kafka's "Race Quad II" board - if anyone has it, please share]


So, the questions are:

1. What's with the angle of the fins, why are they tilted outwards so much?

2. Why are the fins so long - isn't it going to slow the board down?

3. Some boards are quad-fin, some are two-fin - any significant difference in behavior?

4. I take it, these boards are designed for course-racing (i.e. balanced for good both upwind AND downwind perfomance). How good are those for downwind only?

[Unimog Bob]

Dennis,

I have been debating getting a race board for a couple seasons as well. My take is that they are experimenting and constantly getting better. Maybe someone like Damien can hop on and answer. I too would like to know what you asked.

To add, I would be getting it also to "sight see" on days when it is blowing sub 13. Damien (or Kent or anyone), do these boards have significantly better light wind performance than a retro-fish?
Would I be pointing as high upwind as windsurfers when it's blowing 9 to 12 knots? We have a few Olympic level windsurfers that ride our beaches, and it'd be a blast to be able to keep up with them in light winds.

Thanks for any info.

As a side-note, are we ever going to (course) race around here? Last season someone mentioned setting something up. I could have a site up in less than one day to support it, if someone wanted to do something.

[Whitey]

These boards are designed to go upwind at a very tight angle to the wind first. (First man to the weather mark wins most races) Then the secondary design criteria just allow you to survive down wind at high speed so you can go upwind again.

The large size and number of fins is the result of riders finding that by riding the board flat ( top not tilted towards you) they are able ride at a higher angle to the wind, at faster speeds.

So the big difference here is they are not using the rail or an edge of the board, they are trying to keep the board flat and out of the water and they are creating resistance for the kite by using the surface area and angle of the fins in the water. Like the rudders on a Hobie Cat.

I wouldn't think that these would be the best choice for mostly downwinders. Not much rocker and they are made for tacking up wind not carving a jibe downwind.

I think each of us should get one and learn how to ride it well, then race with each other.

Would love to hear from Kent or Damo on this topic.

[kent]

Howdy,

You will actually see fins on the newest course boards are actually more straight while last year they and angles of out to 35 degrees. The difference is that now boards are being ridden more flat while last year fins were geared toward driving a board that is on an extreme edge.

Because boards are not gaining as much from the lateral resistance won by using a full edge, this years boards must use fins for both lateral resistance as well as lift. Generally guys are trying to get away with as much fin as they can hold on to off the wind.

Most of the competitive boards this year are quads while last year twins seemed to be the way to go. I noticed that the larger fins are now being moved far forward and around the front foot. This really allows riders to drive off this fin while pushing hard up wind.

While these course boards are really outstanding in light wind and upwind angles, I wouldn't wish one on anyone to use during a down wind event. It might be the case that some of these boards will do ok off the wind if smaller fins are used.

I think that it is clear that there are about 3 makers of boards that have stuff that is working. Bruno's, NJS, and Mike Z.

Stuff seems to be stabilizing around 20-21 inches wide with 17 inch tails. Longer boards in the 6 ft. range allow for more nose scoop and generally work better on rough conditions. Smaller boards down to around 5'5 are very good in flat water and reduce windage on the nose.

I'd personally recommend getting a course board if you live in FL as it will triple the amount of days you get on the water and add a totally new dimension of "cruising". Good Luck.

PS. all of this being said, I'm still looking for a good course board and don't have a clue as to what to get or what will work!

[Unimog Bob]

Thanks Kent.

So can these boards make kiters competitive with world class windsurfers in sub 13 on a course?

[kent]

it's getting closer, but not yet. Down wind the kiters have it for sure, but on a course it would take a world class kite racer to beat an advanced intermediate formula racer.

I don't doubt that by next year's nationals that the riders and equipment will be equal to the best windsurfers around a course. It is funny to see however that in winds ranging from 6-9 knots that a kiter on a 16 CB IDS using 35 meter lines and a new race board would likely beat a formula windsurfer around a course. Haven't got to test that yet, but i'm 80% sure.

[kent]

This is an article the I wrote for SBC 2 seasons ago. Things have changed quite a bit, but some remains the same. The footing and pinching concepts remain the same. I was pretty close on the fins, but actually now some are running up to 11in. in the front!



Three, two, one, GO! Take it up, take up, go, go, GO! Clean Start! I got away unscathed, but see that 2 riders just down wind got tangled. I’m riding fast on starboard with room to foot into and clean water. Four to five port tack starters are heading my way, but they’re facing a solid wall of starboard tackers. It’s going to be close. “Starboard, STARBOARD!”, “HOLD YOUR COURSE” comes back from the lead rider. Closer, closer, TOO CLOSE, the port tacker flinches and dives his kite quickly, ducking me at full speed by only an inch. Phew, time to breath, just have to hold my lane for another minute or two and find room to tack. Hoping to round the windward mark in good position, I know that a blistering downwind ride with a burning back leg will be the only reward until the finish line.



The Power:

It’s not the fastest speed that wins; it’s the best average speed around the buoys. Course racing tests riders upwind, downwind, and sometimes even on a reach, racers need something well rounded. The target time for a race is generally between 15 and 18 minutes for top finishers, and they’ll run 3-4 races in a day if conditions are good. In a simple windward / leeward race with a down win finish, the distances traveled up and down wind are roughly the same, but the time spent up wind will be roughly 4 times as long. Most significant advantages taken in course racing will be won on the windward leg of the course. Kite size will largely be determined the riders style and the type of board being used, however most racers will use the largest kite manageable. When riding bow kites or basic SLE’s, it is critical to remain fully powered when sheeted out and flying mainly off of the front lines. This allows the kite to ride far forward and into the wind. Most riders will be using larger style directional boards; therefore wind range on the kites will be huge. A 12 meter kite is the central size and will work in winds ranging from around 11 knots up to 25+, but there will be times that a specialized light wind 14 or a smaller 9 will be handy.

Using shorter chicken loops, 2 to 1 bars, and power adjustment straps with longer depowering capabilities all help to provide better range on the upper end. It’s necessary to become familiar with the use of the power adjustment straps. If the system on the kite is hard to use, often slips, or doesn’t offer significant range, changing it or customizing the set up is the only option. Adjusting power on the fly is essential, especially in gusty conditions. As with anything else, riders will push the limits of modification and will often remove the anti chafing patches on the leading edge and will sometimes even replace flying and bridal lines with thinner lines to reduce drag.

The Stick:

Arriving at last year’s nationals, there were differing opinions as to whether a twin tip or a directional would be better for course racing; after the event there was no longer a question. All riders in the top 10 rode a directional board at one point or another. Widths are starting to hover between 17 and 20 inches and are toping out at about 6’ in length. The aft sections of the rails are hard and the outlines of the boards are fairly straight. Rocker on the tail should range from just less than a ¼ of an inch to not much more than an inch. Being straight and flat helps the board to achieve speed and angle upwind, but they can be a handful to ride off the wind. In order to tame the beast and keep the nose from sticking into short, steep chop, look for something that has at least 4.5 inches of rocker on the nose combined with fairly soft or rounded rails in the area. Most of the bottoms are flat, but in order to gain more lateral resistance or to gain control off the wind, some builders are starting to experiment with hard chines, channels, and V.

Foot strap and fin configuration are a matter of preference. While most quad fin boards commonly have only 2 foot straps, if the board is wider than 17.75 inches there is the option to have a 3 foot strap set up with 2 straps in front similar to a windsurfer. For riders having difficulty jibing, using 2 straps in front will allow both feet to be placed in the straps during the turn. Additionally, 3 straps allow for a more open stance when riding down wind. Three straps will still allow for toe-side riding down wind, however most find a single front strap more comfortable. When using 2 straps, some are opting to favor their stronger tack. Position the back strap on the boards’ centerline and open or slightly offset the front strap. Test to insure that the foot can still be placed in the strap on the opposite tack fairly easily. Most riders using either configuration will avoid jibing away from their favored tack. After rounding the windward mark, get on the good tack quickly and ride the board as low as possible. In order to get back toward the center of the course take small hitches on toe side to drive the board down wind and toward the bottom mark. Two straps are very quick from heel to toe side transitions and may offer a slight advantage here.

When switching to directional from twins, the distance between the straps will be greater than a normal free ride stance. Don’t be afraid to go wide as this allows for shifting of the weight from the back leg to the front. In longer races it’s nice to have the added stability of a wide stance as well as a periodic rest for the back leg by riding on the front for a while.

Fin configurations will very widely over the next year. Presently quads are working nicely, but tri fin, and twin fin setups are also being developed. Quads work fantastically well in windy conditions, however they don’t seem to have the same “glide” as some tri's and twins when not fully sprinting. Something setting course boards apart from normal quad tow boards and surf boards is that the fin boxes should have very little if any toe-in. Normally quads are running with about ¼ inch of toe, where as race boards should be reduced to about 1/8th inch or even less, allowing faster speeds and a better glide in the lulls.

Most racers are using raked back, surf style fins primarily because this is what’s available. The Future Systems Scimitar is popular and has been used by one of the dominant bay area riders, Jeff Kafka. As racing progresses, more fin sizes and profiles will become available. Riders will be using more vertical fins up to 7 plus inches in length. Testing is being done on the use of symmetrical foils rather than the surf style asymmetircals. It’s ok to experiment. For example, most quads are normally ridden with the larger fins forward, but depending on the need, and type of fins being used, some riders are finding that having a larger trailing vertical fin will enable the same angle up wind, but offer more speed and control down wind. There are several fin boxes available, however when testing the limits of using larger fins, the ¾ inch Future boxes are proving to be up to the task.

The Skills:

The Golden Rule…”SWIMMING AIN’T FAST”. The best equipment in the world won’t help if a racer falls on 1 of every 5 tacks or jibes.

Up wind: Riding up wind falls into 2 schools of thought. Pinchers ride a bit slower but look to achieve a very high angle upwind where as footers blast up wind at a lower angle but with better speed.

Footers aim for the highest angle they can get, but keeping up speed is more important. They edge hard and mainly survive on the rails of their board to power them up wind. Footers typically use larger kites and often ride them sheeted in, fully powered and back in the window. Footing off the wind with speed is a critical technique when looking to glide across glassy sections of water in gusty winds when lulls are apparent.

Pinchers on the other hand can get away with smaller kites, will usually use slightly larger fins, and often ride their boards more flat. Pinching up wind and using the lift of the fins enable riding at very high angles but with somewhat reduced speed. The board is ridden flatter at angles of only 10-13 degrees, where footers will likely be riding at 14 degrees plus all of the time. Pinchers will differ from edging footers in that their kites will generally be ridden higher in the sky. They are using the width and planning surface of the board combined with the fins to lift them upwind rather than just the rails of the board. Footers keep kites lower in order to be able to edge hard against them. Both styles and skills are effective and essential in some areas of the course, especially just after the start when trying to keep an open lane to race in.

A key component for both footers and pinchers is being able to ride comfortably with the back foot in and out of the strap. Pinchers will often place the back foot in front of the back strap allowing them to stand up straight and keep the board flat. They strive to actually “twist” the board up wind by pushing the back foot away and pulling the front foot toward the body and upwind. Footers ride in the back strap or at times even place their back foot aft of the strap to apply maximum leverage to the tail of the board.

Reaching and downwind: After rounding the upwind mark, it’s time to hold on! The technique for most riders off the wind is simple, “survive”! From a comfort standpoint, if not ambidextrous, most riders get on their favored tack quickly. Beginners may want to ride only on the favored tack down wind, avoiding jibing, especially if they usually end in with a swim. Do this by jibing the kite and transitioning from heel side to toe side for short periods of time. Try down looping the kite during the transition to stay fully powered to gain more distance down wind.

For directional newbys', riding down wind, speeds can feel excessive and the board bouncy and uncontrollable. To regain control, try bareing off wind toward the kite. This will help to reduce the pull of the kite and bleed off speed. Focus on tightening the abdominal muscles to provide stability. Lowering the kite slightly will shift body weight off of the kite and onto the board increasing control. Sheet in according to the power need, but try to pull or actually “lever” the bar closer to the board. This creates a power triangle that feels stable and fast. It’s important to trust the board. Well designed race and surf boards are actually very forgiving compared to twin tips when going low through chop.

Riding straight down wind isn’t something that most riders do often and the learning curve can be steep. Finding the happy ground of riding low, but with power still in the kite is key. It’s difficult to ride at low angles to the wind while keeping the kite in a locked position, therefore cycling the kite to get maximum power is a must. Riders are used to the extra boost during the down stroke of the kite, but feeling the power during the up stoke is also key. Riders are in the zone when feeling the pull twice per cycle. While some will be fully looping the kite both forward and back, more successful riders are not completely looping their kites, but are completing cycles that look similar to an “S”. Practice on long down wind rides and focus on using slight edge to keep the kite powered during the turns. Keep eyes focused on the water about 5 yards in front of the board. Pick the fastest line and try to ride the board “downhill” as much as possible, avoiding the upside of chop and waves.

The Turns: Being able to tack well up wind yields large gains. A fast tacker will only take about 4-6 seconds to change direction and get up to speed again. Slow tacking or even jibing when going up wind can take 7-12 seconds plus. At upwind speeds of 25-30 feet per second, an extra 5 seconds on 3 tacks can mean lost distances of 450 feet or more!


When starting off, most riders will opt to do a quick snap jibe. Regular foot riders will sometimes find it easier to switch their feet before jibing from starboard to port. This allows for a very quick turn with little distance lost down wind. When jibing from port to starboard, first point the board high into the wind to reduce speed and then send the kite from about 10 o’clock back to 1 o’clock while sharply carving the board down wind, exiting the turn on toe side. Switch the feet after the turn, but before fully powering the kite.

The new school crew and those with good strapless experience are tacking their boards up wind. This is absolutely the fastest way to switch directions, but requires some water time. Uhhh… just buy the video for this one



The rules:

The most important rule is that all racers must avoid a collision regardless of right away. In kiting a collision will usually result in the disqualification of both riders or at the minimum will end with both riders swimming to shore to untangle.

Starboard tack riders have rights over port tack riders. This often applied rule is in affect on every leg of the course, both up wind and down. Simply put, a rider that is on a tack with his or her right hand on the front of the bar is on starboard tack. When a starboard tack rider is going to meet a port tack rider (left hand first) and their courses may cause a collision, the starboard tack rider must yell “STARBOARD” loudly in order for the port tack rider to hear. The port tack rider now has 3 options: to turn away, to duck down wind of the starboard tack rider, or if the port tacker thinks that he or she can cross safely with out forcing the starboard tacker to alter course, they can hold course. After the starboard tack rider hales, they must maintain the same angle to the wind as they were on prior to hailing. If a port tack rider doesn’t give way to a starboard tacker, the starboard tacker simply needs to loudly protest the port tacker on the water and gather a few witnesses for the after race protest.

As kite racing evolves clearly defined methods will be implemented to exonerate a rider that has fouled another rider during the race. Currently, if a rider admits the penalty to the race committee boat immediately after the race they may me penalized 20% of the fleet. If the rider does not inform the committee of the infringement and is found in violation during the protest hearing they can be disqualified from the race in question.

Windward / Leeward: In the simplest terms, if two riders are on the same tack, the leeward rider has the rights to head the windward rider up wind on any leg of the course. The leeward rider retains these rights until the windward rider is “clear ahead” and informs that leeward rider of this.

There are several rules that are slightly more complicated and some that still need defining. The best rules is to remember are rule number 1 (riders must avoid any collisions at all cost) and the Golden Rule that “swimming ain’t fast. Keep these rules in mind and act accordingly.

The brains:

Number 1, read the damn race instructions and don’t be late to course. Leaving the beach early allows for a warm up and a chance to check out the course. Ride down to the starting line, making sure to recognize the marks of the course. Visualize rounding the marks as clear thinking when riding in a crowd during race conditions is difficult. If there is an option of running more than 2 courses, it pays to write them down until they are fully understood.

After knowing the game, riding the first leg of the course to the windward mark is next. This investment will pay huge dividends. The largest advantage in pre-riding the weather leg before is having the option to sight a transit line on the windward mark. The point at which a rider can tack and round the mark is called a “lay line”. To pull a transit, ride toward the windward mark and get to the point at which a tack could be made to easily lay or round the mark. Take a line sight that extends from the tacking position to the mark and extend it to some other fixed object like a tower or building beyond the mark. Do this for both tacks if possible. Having a transit on the mark will allow for knowing the first possible opportunity to clear the mark even from long distances. This will help to avoid tacking early, which usually requires 2 unnecessary tacks causing losses of 300 plus feet. In close racing scenarios tacking too means lost advantage to riders that were behind but tacked earlier and still made the mark.

Make a plan. Riding in crowds, board handling skills, etc. are all important to consider when making a plan. Aside from determining the favored side of the course which for now is probably too advanced, making a game plan that outlines the desired number of tacks on the first leg can be a good idea. Be prepared to adapt and change the plan quickly as the unexpected usually happens. Starting on starboard, the minimum number of tacks to get around the windward mark (if the course indicates that all marks are to be left on the port side) is two. Port tack starters take the risk of crossing the starting line with out rights, but have the option of only doing 1 tack. If a rider chooses to only do 1 or 2 tacks to the lay line, they will have a very difficult time determining exactly when to tack given that their distance from the mark is long. On a long beat, it’s often best to stay closer to the middle of the course to make sighting the lay line easier. Once again, having a transit site will help. On the other hand if falling on tacks is common when going up wind, limiting the number of tacks and “banging a corner” may be a good option until board handling skills improve.

Most importantly, after making the plan and waiting for the starting sequence, ride and wait only UPWIND of the starting line! Hearing the starting sequence and being 100 yards down wind of the line doesn’t leave many good starting options.



The Start:

Having a watch to time the sequence helps to avoid being late and enables a rider nail starts, leaving the line with clean wind and water.

Pull a transit on the starting buoy just as for the windward mark. Starting with 25-50 other racers it’s often difficult to determine exactly where the line is and having one gives the confidence to push the start.

When looking to start on starboard, ride away from the line on port going slightly up wind at ¾ speed. For example at 2 minutes to go, ride away for 1 minute at ¾ speed allowing time for a tack and then ride back to the line at something faster than ¾ speed in order to get back to the same point. It’s important to stay slightly above the line on the outside to avoid having to pinch up wind at the last minute eating dirty wind and water.

Try to open a hole just to leeward and defend it to be able to easily to accelerate into it seconds before the start. This provides a lane to race in and the rider a chose to either foot or pinch to avoid being passed to windward.

The ability to hold a lane to ride in during the first 2 minutes of a race will largely affect the outcome at the first mark, and often the race. With racers riding above and below, finding smooth water and consistent wind can be difficult. Be prepared to pinch out windward riders passing close above. Pinching hard may force them to tack off and into traffic or toward a bad side of the course. If pinching isn’t an option, and there is space to leeward, foot off and to gather speed will help to avoid being overtaken.

All marks of the course are areas of consolidation and it’s a good rule of thumb is to try to stay between the competition and any mark or finish line. This helps to avoid being hurt by adverse wind shifts and strong gusts.


There are several fantastic events being planned for the upcoming season. The race scene is quickly growing and is exciting. Racing closely with riders from all over the world, checking gear, speed, and smarts is rewarding on all levels. Age is not a consideration for being able to win a race or two, but riders better come with strong legs and be able to hold it together on a blistering downwind ride or a grueling beat upwind. This spring or summer give course racing a try and learn something about the gear you ride and even a bit about yourself.


Side Bar:

In 2002 a small group of kiters were persuaded by Red Bull to cross the Gulf Stream from Key West to Cuba, setting the long distance world record. I remember the last minutes of the crossing and looking at Neil Hutchinson and Fabric Collard, and wondering if it wasn’t actually the first person to reach Cuba that would really be the record holder… As the crossing was really a team challenge, we all agreed that the record was to be held in common. This did however water the seeds of our competitive spirits. After the crossing, I remember talking with Neil and we were both saying how great it would be if next time we actually RACED to Cuba…

Neil took our conversation and put it into action, however the finish line would be a small Bahamian jewel at the other edge of the gulf steam, Bimini. This race fueled the fires of riders all over the world. Neil’s phone was blowing up with calls from everywhere asking when the next crossing would be. Due to the danger and intricacy of organizing an open water crossing, the decision was made that coastal down wind races would be the next best option. Out of this, many competitions started to emerge including the Tampa bay crossing and the extreme Jupiter to Ft. Lauderdale 60 mile race.

Around the same time as the emergence of boarder cross and down wind races in Florida, another small group of riders in the San Francisco Bay area were flirting with the organization of course racing. Riders Chip Wasson, John Gomes, and others with the help of the very forward thinking St. Francis Yacht Club organized a series of Thursday night races that included upwind legs, and thus the Cabrinha Kite Race Series was born. The St. Francis group took this new discipline to a new and very high level of organization. They implemented well thought out rules similar to yacht racing and the events were run with professional race management officials like Jonathan Craig of STFYC. The Series was wildly successful and the concept was presented to US Sailing to be sanctioned as an official class in the organization. Since this time, Kite racing has had its first ever US National Championships and the discipline as spread around the world. Currently there is a serious discussion with ISAF, the international governing body of sailing to be ratified as an official sailing class world-wide.

Out of the box:

There are several good choices right out of the box that allow for competitive racing results.

Boards:

Give the Jeff Kafka designed Prisoner of Wind race boards a try. They are very competitive up wind and exceptionally fast off the breeze. This is one of the few race boards that excels on the course and is still fun to ride. If you’re looking for a custom shape, check out DC boarders at www.dcboardz.com or the new shapes from Nils Stolzlechner at www.njsdesign.com.


Kites:

For light to moderate winds give either the Crossbow 3 or Contra a go. Both of these kites incorporate 2 to 1 boards and offer monstrous range and direct power. Although they have a bit more bar pressure, they both provide unparalleled performance both up and down wind.


Fins:

Try the symmetrical foiled speed dialers from Rainbow fins. The straighter back fins are slightly longer than most and provide excellent lift. Footers should give Futures Scrimitar’s a chance. Don’t be afraid to cut the rear Pivot’s down a centimeter at a time until a good balance of lift and control is achieved.

Harnesses:

Try using either a seat or a waist harness. Generally a waist will allow a rider a bit more control by keeping more weight on the board. Seat harnesses eliminate the potential for the harness to ride up. Seats are thought by many to offer a maximum level of comfort.

Safety:

Riding at fast speeds, overpowered, and in close proximity to 40 other riders all going to the same spot can be risky. Riding with a helmet, floatation / impact vests, and a kite knifes are all very important.

[Unimog Bob]

Cool, thanks.

[ricki]

Thanks for your input Kent. I always had good success using line extensions on traditional C kites. Tried some 10 m extensions a couple of years back on a BOW with limited influence. Then again, I wasn't racing or on a course board. To realize more effect in the low end, longer lines or extensions still are worth the exercise in your view with BOW kites? The physics makes it clear it should help, on the surface anyway.

ps - nice article!

[experienced1]

last I saw...quad or twin +2 is the dominant choice. angle is either straight or maybe around 8 degrees. Not all are foiled the same; one set can be double and the other single. Length of fins seems be be getting shorter but with longer chords. Regarding boards; most seem to be having the wide section carried further forward and the nose less drown out; nose wider and rounder. Except for the lastest NJS which has the nose drawn out more than ever..less volume
steve