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Originally Posted by Jeffro
We frequently get large surf here in CA, and here is what I've learned over the years:
First off, never go full speed into a verticle wave face! It does NOT feel good (I can tell you first hand), and the wave will win. Be sure to get really good at (and expect to do a lot of) chicken jibing.
If you do get caught inside and a direct encounter with a large wave face is inevitable, try to slow down or stop completely, and then as the wave face hits, tuck in abit to decrease your surface area. As you go through the water (underwater!), use the kite to hold your position, and you should pop out the back. I recently got pulled through a 10 foot wave face, and it worked. Try NOT to get hit by a falling lip if at all possible, though thats easier said than done.
If you can wait for the wave to break and turn into whitewater, definitely do so. You'll sometimes have to wait for the "second bounce" to lower the steepness (watch waves as they break, the whitewater will bounce 2 or 3 times as energy disappates). Even large whitewater can be ridden over once the steepness has decreased. Just lean back as it hits. The only time it doesn't work well is when you are underpowered.
If its windy enough, you can send a jump OVER the wave. This mainly works with a lot of experience. Its a risky move though, because if you don't make it, it will put you perfectly in firing range of a thick wave lip! You will get hit really hard, or atleast have an out of control spin initiated by having it hit the bottom of your board. It could also tweak your knees, or slap your side hard enough to break a rip...so be very careful.
You can also stay inside and chickenjibe the waves until it temporarily lulls out. Where I live, alot of close calls are had (which adds to the excitement), but better judgement needs to be used, as you can get hurt really bad (or gear damaged).
If you down your kite in the surf, DO NOT let the surf grab the kite and pull you....it will most likely damage your kite severely! If a wave is about to hit your downed kite, immediately release it and let the wave take it to shore.
Riding in the waves is the most fun and challenging (for me). Hopefully these inputs have helped. 8)
Maybe I'll see you all in Florida one day...I have yet to kite there.
Jeffro
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Hello Jeffro,
Thanks for all the excellent information! Areas of Florida, more the central and northeastern coasts have some surf. Still the further south you go along the east coast, the choppier the waves can become. This limits the amount of time to learn and practice in larger waves. With your several thousand mile fetch and deep water of the Pacific, big surf can be a fairly regular thing. Your obvious experience at having to manage riding through larger waves on a regular basis shows.
Still, I was impressed at the Jupiter competition with how well riders managed in the larger waves. This includes some guys that almost ride in flat water exclusively. Two of these butter shredders, Brad and Francisco attributed this to their time surfing.
Thanks for all the tips and as you say, WATCH OUT for the lip! Hope to meet you in Florida.