I'm jealous.

But a few years ago during one of the hurricanes, the wind switched offshore and the far jetty at sunset (near upham) was going off double overhead and clean as ever, building way out. The offshore breeze was blowing a huge spray 10 feet over the back of the wave when it crested. Man it was epic. I'll never forget that day. I was on a 9'6. There were only 4 of us down there and it was bigger there than the regular jetty or at upham.

I also remember how exhausted I was by the time I got to the outside... felt like I was going to have cardiac arrest before the lull between sets ever arrived.

Kiteboarding is fun but to me surfing has a bigger adrenaline rush on a big day. Usually you bust your butt to get out there, get hammered by some big sets and scratching and clawing your way over the tops of them, and then turn try to catch your breath on the outside and the next set somes in... you never get much of a chance to catch your breath... unless you want to let nice waves go by and walk for a mile back up wind.

Oh and those days only happen a couple times a year on this coast... the rest of the time it's small or blown out or both