CL QR mods

[LSUkiter]

I practiced using all of my quick releases, emergency scenarios, and self-rescuing this weekend. The one thing I noticed is that the little red bail out QR on the Best chicken loop kind of sucks. I'm sure it's a great system compared to others, but what I don't like is the size of the loop. I could blindly grab it if need be, but'd it'd take a couple of tries. I'd like to mod it with something to make it easier to grab, cause I'm sure I won't have time to look down to locate it in an emergency.
I was going to go to a boat shop and search around for something to add to it. I was thinking maybe a bright red floater ball that I could grab, but figured before I go waste my time trying to invent my own way, it'd be alot easier just to cheat and steal somebody else's tried and true mod if somebody has a good one.
Thanks in advance,
Richard

[Tom Stock]

You are absolutely correct.

I put a 1" red stopper ball on a loop of line, and attached it through the head of the PIN (NOT TO THE RED LOOP ITSELF).

The most important part here is that you can feel it with cold hands without looking... it's nearly impossible to find that stupid red loop with cold hands while getting dragged at 20mph, much less get your finger inside it. I am speaking from experience here unfortunately.

Way to go thinking about your gear. You should also add a ring to one of the front lines for flagging the kite and self landing.

http://www.floridakiteboarder.com/bestbar.jpg

[Steve-O]

Great thinking and forsight. I have been thinking about some simple mods for Cabrinha kites that would give you more options in the event of a problem.

More to come.

[Skyway Scott]

I had a mini-kitemare recently. I know Matt and a few saw it. It was on a 7m in about 25.
Long story short, distance was my friend. I have been riding for quite awhile and have been whacked or close to it enough that I don't panic and know where my CL is... blah.. blah.....

Even given that, it took me a full 4 seconds and 50 yards of getting dragged and bopped around to find and activate the Best QR during a death spiral scenario.

My reason for posting this is that I can promise you, no matter how much you practice or ride or alter your gear, in a death spiral or tea bag from hell scenario, it's going to take you longer to activate your QR than you might think. Your arms and body are usually getting thrown about fairly violently and you may very well miss your first attempt at the QR (especially a side mounted finger loop).
This means if you are less than 70 yards from shore when the incident happens, you are probably screwed.

In this particular case, I had a rear line go slack coming down from a kite loop with the bar turned greatly. It wrapped around the bar and then went into a death spiral. :mad: The kite was not going to crash, it was looping too tightly and pulling me moderately quickly through the water.
I was glad I got the QR and that it actually worked.

I mainly bring it up because distance is your best QR mod, trust me.
Having an awesome rig and no distance won't do you any good. Having a good QR and distance at least gives you a chance.

[bryanleighty]

good points Scott.. (good threat too)

has anyone released a waroo flagged to a single front bridle line?

if the waroo had a front line release (like Tom's mod) then Scott would not have had to ditch the entire rig to escape injury.

on Friday and Saturday of last week I was leashing to my left hand out-side line. on every line, bar and bridle failure I've had its always been on the right side due to the fact that when i jump or loop i pull w/ my right hand..

chances are much greater that the problems will occur on the right hand lines and bridles.

[Skyway Scott]

That's actually my front line mod that I learned from Jeff Weiss about 7 years ago. I have been using it for a long time, mainly to self land. Bob, Danny, Tom and a few others have modded their bars as well.
It doesn't do much good to hook to it while riding (unless you never unhook or do tricks) because it will turn into a tangle ClusterMuster with multiple rotations or when you unhook it may place pressure on the front line (leash gets lengthened to ultimate distance... then pulls on line), possibly accidentally steering the kite quickly (that's really bad). That particular mod is really only useful for self landing, imo, and I use it a ton for that.

After having said that, if the winds go ballistic while I am on the water, I do switch over to that front line with my leash as a flag out system. In that scenario, I would get about 50 yards from shore, flag it out, and then drift in after the kite is in the water (I am talking nuking, problem winds). It definitely kills and flags out the kite, I have done it many times.
The problem with doing this is the other lines are now slack and may tangle around you though. That's why I try to do it offshore (I still believe a little distance from land is good), but close enough to shore that I will be in the water only a short time.

Anyway, it's not a real option to attach to the front line OS in my opinion while riding, unless a beginner (then I think it's a great option).
I still would have had to QR by the way the other day. It wouldn't have mattered at all where my leash was.
I may not have had to release the secondary leash QR, but again, attaching to the front line OS affords more difficulties than solutions when unhooking and doing multiple rotations, so I don't view it as an option. If I did, I would hook my leash there all the time.

I have tried to figure out how to get a line to run from my front line OS down through the bar (to avoid tangles and the distance problem).
The SS Rev system seems to be the best approach at this. I mimicked that approach, but I personally decided against having all that "free" line in the water to tangle me up every time I release the kite. To each his own, no approach at this time is without flaw (unfortunately).

The new Best bar has front line OS handles on both sides btw, they put them there for self landing.
Supposedly they are going to make a vid or picture essay showing how to use them.

[<jason]

So if your not unhooking or doing rolls and such where should I hook my leash to...been hooking below the bar but when it cranks it goes to an outside line....
Is this right...theirs no flagout below the bar.. Should I not hook there..?

[Skyway Scott]

That little metal ring next to the CL is possibly the best place to attach your leash (what the bottom right arrow is pointing to in Tom's pic).
It's what Best recommends and what I do. What it does is depower the kite as much as possible when you release to it.

I am personally wary of attaching to a rear OS. I have had too many bad things happen with that. That's just my opinion though, and I know many riders trust that rear OS. I don't. I would rather take my chances with the depower ring and if getting dragged in the water 'cuz it didn't fully depower, just let the kite go (QR the leash). My reasoning is that the depower ring usually puts the kite in the water (if released in high winds). If the kite is still moderately powered and I am getting dragged, at least it's not looping. I will have time most likely (and not be getting looped around) to QR my leash.
The rear OS has the possibility (however slim) of pulling a death spiral on you. I have been in it and seen them happen. I don't understand the physics of it (seems impossible) but I don't have to, I have seen it.
In those scenarios, you might be surprised the ride you would take. Up and down in the water.. changing speeds and directions.... it can be hard to reach your leash QR (I think Bill proved this recently)
So, I might be a tad paranoid, but you literally couldn't pay me to leash to a rear OS for fear of the death spiral. :(

If you are planning on ever attaching to the rear OS on the Best bar, undo the velcro associated with them before you start riding. Those velcro things when attached make the rear OS inoperable (useless). If you don't undo it and then QR to a rear OS... plan on getting royally screwed (I am not exaggerating).

[inferno]

one thing to think about with leashing to the CL, if a back line breaks and you release, the ktie will loop... wont be a super fast death spiral, but it will loop....

[kite-4-life]

All pimpin aside Freak Doggies have a working thru the bar (and CL)front line safety, with a CL swivel for untwisting lines. The OS handles are a little larger than most and much easier to grab. It works well, but I would suggest adding a stopper on the front line to keep the bar from sliding all the way to the kite.

[Skyway Scott]

Another thing to consider when hooking to that CL ring on the Best.
When your CL line breaks (mine did while doing a kite loop) the whole kite just flies away, after you fall flat out of the sky. You are left sitting there with a about 3 feet of Cloop line with a ring on the end attached to your leash :confused: watching as your kite, bar and lines goes bye bye.
That's when I experimented with the front line attachment and some stuff running down from it through the bar (to avoid that loose kite scenario).
I couldn't reason out anything I liked, so back to square one.

Ok... it's been fun. Gotta get stuff done. :)

[bryanleighty]

safest would be a 5th line attached at the center point of the kites LE with q-line that passed thru a small hole drilled in the waroo slider stopper and connected to your leash .. w/ a stopper about 30 feet up.

5th line would be a slacked enough to not be a flying line, but a pure safety line..

ive read a few forum posts where a release line on a Rev broke.. and i believe this is due to the fact that besides a safety line, its also a primary flying line.


maybe i am wrong.

ive talked about doing a mod like this for a while.. prob should just get to it and see if it works..

[Tom Stock]

I agree thats a good idea, as long as there is a stopper to keep the kite from flying upside down.

Connecting leash to an outside line is a bad idea. Only use it if you have to release the whole deal... as a handle... (hense the name o-shit handle) but do not connect your leash to it while riding.

A simple tangle of your leash around anything could pull your kite into death spirals.

[LSUkiter]

Tom, that was basically what I was planning on doing, but I got to admit, I probably never would have attached it to the head of the pull pin. I would have attached it to the webbing. I'm glad I posted, your idea's a better one.

I had seen the front line flag out ring mod, I think on one of Scott's posts previously and was actually going to add it the same time I modded the CL release. Any particular reason you only attached the ring to one front line instead of both like Best is doing with the 2008 Bar?

[Tom Stock]

Cause those rings are like $10 and I only had one :D

When you use it to self land, bring the kite down low and make sure the ring you release to is the one going to the top edge of the kite.

It'll plop right down nice and pretty.

[LSUkiter]

good reason

[Chad085]

the rev uses a bungee line that attatches to one of the front lines. There is not actual flying tension on it under normal circumstances, which is why its a bungee. A standard length line would be too slack, and in the way especially once you depower the kite a little bit. once the cl is released, the front line slides through a small stopper ball and the bungee pulls tight; flagged kite. I have no idea why mine broke, but it snapped clean and bye bye kite. (this was after the CL line broke) Fortunately is was tamed before becoming a hazard on the beach or getting damaged, although i was so pissed i was going to leave that thing in whatever tree or building it got wrapped up in:mad: Moral of the story? just bought a new 8 and 12 meter SB3's

[Tom Stock]

BTW LSUKiter, I think you only really need one... I've never had two... one is enough... I actually think it's safer because you always know which side of the kite it's connected to, where with two you'd have to unspin lines, double check, etc before self landing.

I always connect my ring line to the right side of the kite... so I always land with the kite to my left.