Serious Flat Kite Accident

[ricki]

An experienced kiter was launching a new 9 m flat kite for the first time in strong, very gusty side onshore winds. The rider had many years experience with C kites but reportedly had less than two sessions with flat kites. A group of riders had visited this launch from out town and had setup up outside of the approved area. The wind record shown below suggests winds 22 gusting to 30 kts. around the time of the accident at 2:30 pm and substantially higher prior. Squalls were reportedly not present with winds resulting from a powerful cold front.

http://www.fksa.org/albums/album240/Wind_Record.jpg

Other experienced kiters were out on 7 m and 9 m flat kites and heavily powered. A bridal line was wrapped around a wingtip without the knowledge of the kiter or his assistant apparently when the kite was picked up to launch.

http://www.fksa.org/albums/album240/0_G.jpg
How the bridle may have been wrapped over the wingtip.

After the kite was released it began to immediately spin out of control, fully powered up looping in the power zone dragging the kiter. The rider had attached his leash above the chicken loop and dropped his bar to fully depower the kite. The depowering mechanism relies upon the leading edge bridle which was snagged in place by the tangle eliminating the depower function. So despite dropping his bar the kite did not significantly depower as he was dragged along.

http://www.fksa.org/albums/album240/2_G.jpg
Another view of how the bridle may have been tangled.

The kiter that had launched him ran forward and jumped on him to hold him in place. Both were subsequently dragged until the helper was knocked off breaking a finger. Another well experienced kiter ran up when the kite hit the ground and grabbed one line to try to depower the kite. The kite relaunched causing a serious cut to the man's little finger and hand.

http://www.fksa.org/albums/album240/3_G.jpg
Hand injuries

The rider hit several objects during the dragging including two other kiters standing on the beach and breaking a 4" x 4" timber embedded in the dune with his shoulder.

http://www.fksa.org/albums/album240/a.sized.jpg
A similar section of beach with stakes used to rope off the sea oats as well. Smaller timbers are shown in use here than at the scene of the accident.

The kite struck a palm tree, ending the dragging after the rider had traveled about 150 ft. up the beach. His leash broke shortly before this time. Aside from cuts and bruises the rider and other participants were reportedly OK. The one man that grabbed the kite line received stitches for his hand laceration.

[ricki]

Several things come to mind from this accident:

1. Never use new or unfamiliar gear in extreme conditions no matter how experienced you are.

2. Rider and helper must verify that lines and bridles are correct before releasing the kite. The kiter may not be able to see something like this during launch.

3. Avoid using kites near the upper end of the recommended wind range (32 kts. in this case) and never when new to the gear.

4. NOTE: Carefully evaluate where to attach your kite leash on flat kites, particularly when near shore. Reportedly, if attached to the Oh Shit Handle this kite will substantially depower, as long as the flight line doesn't break. If attached to the chicken loop as was done in this case, the depower may be disabled by breakage or snags. There are still other options with other kites, speak with manufacturer's reps if necessary. Spend some time on this and choose well.

5. Never grab a line attached to a powered up kite.

6. Rehearse mentally and physically dealing with a overpowered emergency by totally depowering the kite and finding and releasing the leash attachment to the kiter (should the later prove to be necessary in an emergency).

9. Always wear a good helmet, impact vest, hook knife, gloves and other gear as appropriate.

10. Always research where to ride before going to a beach. Preservation of access concerns us all.

[ricki]

This rider was incredibly lucky to have suffered fairly minor injury in a flat kite accident which could have EASILY been fatal. Other kiters on the beach might have also been seriously injured as well. He couldn't see the kite being launched and the helper may not have been all that familiar with flat kites. Some things to think about related to assisted launching and past accidents appear HERE (http://www.kiteforum.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=2300738)

Both are very experienced with C kites. Hanging on to a kite for launch in high wind and blasting sand isn't all that easy a proposition particularly when the kite is near its upper wind limit. The time to experiment with new gear is not in such extreme conditions. Also, avoid "soft" leash attachment clips, for a good reason why click HERE (http://fksa.org/showthread.php?t=2399)

Another kiter had advised the rider not to attach his leash to the chicken loop but instead attach it to his Oh Shit handle and shift it over once well offshore. The rider was not that comfortable with this as he was used to suicide leash attachments on C kites through the chicken loop. NOTE: There are significant DIFFERENCES between flat kites and C kites, learn what they are by carefully reading the user manual, talking to other kiters and carefully building experience with the flat kite under controlled circumstances. Just because you are used to attaching your leash to the chickenloop or even the bypass leash attachment, doesn't necessarily mean this is a good place to attach to while near shore. In the current case, attaching to the Oh Shit handle until well offshore and then moving it to the chicken loop would have made more sense. What happens if a bridle breaks? Maybe something not all that different.

Make sure you know where your leash attachment quick release is and be familiar with activating it. On top of your butt may not be the best location for this either. Too many kiters ignore this simple step in self preservation along with even practicing totally depowering their kite. "I'll figure it out in the emergency," unlikely.

A stopper ball can simulate some of what happened in this accident. Don't engage stopper balls on flat kites nearshore or when you might potentially crash (i.e. before jumping).

Experienced guys don't need helmets or impact vests because ... ? Luck is great while it lasts but some basic safety gear may stretch your luck when you unexpectedly get dragged south at lightspeed someday. Overconfidence can be a killer not only in kiting but in many action sports. Flat kites may reduce kiting fatalities but the capacity to injure and kill is still there. Be careful out there.

[Skyway Scott]

Rick,

Thanks for the info. I hope the kiters' injuries heal soon. Props to the other kiters who tried to help out. Sounds like they laid a lot on the line in their efforts. To me launching a kite is one of the most vulnerable moments we encounter in kiting. Having bridles on the kites obviously increases the odds of something going wrong on the launch, like with this unfortunate incident.

As a preventative measure, I always keep one finger in the QR loop during launch so that if anything goes even slightly wrong, I am "outta there" instantly. If I even flinch while launching, I will probably activate my QR. It's kind of a built in "kite ejector" unless everything goes smoothly on the launch.
It's just not possible to grab a QR while getting dragged and bounced around. I bet this kiter tried, or maybe stuff just happened too fast. Either way, it's not easy, I learned the hard way.

I hope he heals up real fast.

[bryanleighty]

this is a common issue with bridled kites..

local rider and hello kitty inventor E-bone was the first in area to pick up a Waroo.. on one of his first solo launches he got a bridle wrap that resulted in a looping spiral of DOOM not unlike the this other guy.

Luckily for E-bone, he was on a mostly deserted beach with ample room for error so his experience left him mostly with only a bruised ego and a broken leash attachment on his harness.

Had he been in crowded conditions it would have been a different story. I know that others here would have jumped in to help and might have ended up getting themselves hurt...

Eric's story is in the back of my mind on every lauch of my Waroos.. I always tell the person launching me to make sure the bridles are clear and I make sure to get a visual of them myself before I give a thumbs up.

[ricki]

Do you see folks that routinely engage the stopper balls most of the time? That is launching, landing, riding?

Scott, you have a hand on your leash attachment QR when launching, correct?

Bryan, good points. Usually, most of the responsibility should rest with the guy being launched or the pilot. It seems though that it is possible to have a bridle tangle that develops when the kite is picked up for launch and the pilot is 75 ft. away and perhaps unable to clearly see this.

So, new burdens may fall on the helper that previously didn't exist. It would be good to talk this over with your helper prior to launch. Particularly hand signals as well, thumbs up, fist to hold and to never just drop or toss the kite among quite a few other precautions. Just like with C kites, the kite should feel like it wants to fly if it is ready to let it go.

[invisible]

Same here... finger in QR loop (which sucks, it needs a ball on it instead.. but thats best for you)... ask launcher to visually inspect all pulleys and bridles when kite fills... steer kite to make sure tension fells correct (surprised this guy didn't find something odd here immediately)... if kite steers ok and wants to take off on it's own, give the thumbs up.

I never self launch in 25+.

[E-Bone]

Yeah, this story sounds really familiar to my own 9m Waroo kitemare, which happened in February 2006 in Venice, FL on a strong NW wind.

My wife (who has done kite duty plenty of times) launched the kite, but a bridle wrap caused the kite to start looping right away. I got dragged over 100 yards but, luckily, the wind was perfect sideshore and I had about 4 miles of empty sand (and no bystanders) downwind of me. Otherwise, I could have been seriously injured or killed. I did not sustain a permanent injury, only incurring some minor cuts, strains, and abrasions. I had sand coming out of my ears for days, as well.

Still, my kite looped over 20 times in 25 to 30 mph and my wife got to witness one of the worst kitemares I've ever been involved in. I finally hit the quick release on the chicken loop (it's strange I didn't do so earlier, but I was a bit dazed by events and was still trying to regain control of the kite), and the kite then yanked my leash so hard that it ripped a leash attachment ring out of my Dakine harness. I hit the quick release on the leash, and the kite then drifted down and tumbled down the beach up against a volleyball net and depowered long enough for me to jump up, run down the beach, and grab the kite.

I was really freaked out and didn't kite again for a week or so after that. More importanly, I felt terrible for putting my poor wife through such an ordeal. The kitemare was brutal and for a moment she thought that I was going to get killed.

The accident was caused because I gave the thumbs up to launch before making certain the bridle was clear. I had a nagging suspicion that something wasn't quite right but I knew that the lines were straight, so I didn't catch on to the bridle being wrapped. The strong wind and gustiness amplified the difficulty of making certain everything was fine before I launched.

A wrapped bridle on launch is a preventable error but it is a relatively new type of potential problem for any kiter to encounter, especially a rider transitioning from C kites to a bow or SLE (as I was in February 2006). A bridle wrap can be very hard to see for the kiter holding the bar--the kiter holding the kite should give the bridle a quick look before launching the kite.

This drives home the point that launching any kite is one of the most dangerous moments of any session--if the kite is rigged incorrectly or a bridle is wrapped, all the safety features of a bow or SLE will likely not function.

My own 9m Waroo kitemare happened to me after I had been kiting for five years, as well, so experience alone won't save you. Good luck to the kiters involved in this new accident and I am glad the outcome was not worse. I can certainly sympathize with them. It sucks when a session that promises to be epic instead turns into an epic kitemare.

[Skyway Scott]

Do you see folks that routinely engage the stopper balls most of the time? That is launching, landing, riding?

Scott, you have a hand on your leash attachment QR when launching, correct?

Rick, I have my fingers in the QR for the kite (c-loop) during launch (I hook in and sheet out while launching).
The QR on the leash would come second in my situation, should things go real wrong.

I activate the stopper quite frequently while riding. I use the new Waroo bar with the dynamic stopper on it.
I always push it away (total depower) before unhooking for a trick.
It is set to total depower while launching and landing, as well.
Having a stopper set to full power during a launch/land would be a bad idea, for certain.
Although from what I have seen, the Best system would depower given where the leash attaches (center lines), I still push the stopper way out before launch/land/unhook.

[bayflite]

i let go of the bar then grab c-loop w/both hands and unhook
i don't trust some QR's
nice2 have az a last rezort IMO

[JustinZ]

Question from this discussion.

I have a cabrinha bow kite and there are only two places to attach a leash to. Either right above the chicken loop, or on the little red ball with a small ring in it that is only attached to one of the inside lines. Obviously it is safer to attach it to the one inside line so in an emergency you can completely kill the kite even if another line breaks or the bridle gets tangled.

Most guys I see out kiteboarding with bow kites attach the leash above the chicken loop so I just followed suit. It makes it easier after a kiteloop to be able to spin the bar to untangle it instead of having to loop it the other way. It seems to me that the only purpose to have the leash attached to the chicken loop at all is for people doing unhooked moves that dont want to lose the kite if they crash. If it is just to be able to unspin the bar freely then what is the point of the leash at all.

My question is: Is there a way to have both? Being able to have your leashed attach to just one inside line (so you can dump all of the kites power by releasing your chicken loop QR) and also have the flexibility to unspin the bar after a kiteloop without the leash getting in the way?

-Justin

[invisible]

Yes, 5th line through the bar.

[invisible]

Grabbing the C loop only works if the kite depowers when you let go of the bar.

[ricki]

Question from this discussion.

I have a cabrinha bow kite and there are only two places to attach a leash to. Either right above the chicken loop, or on the little red ball with a small ring in it that is only attached to one of the inside lines. Obviously it is safer to attach it to the one inside line so in an emergency you can completely kill the kite even if another line breaks or the bridle gets tangled.

Most guys I see out kiteboarding with bow kites attach the leash above the chicken loop so I just followed suit. It makes it easier after a kiteloop to be able to spin the bar to untangle it instead of having to loop it the other way. It seems to me that the only purpose to have the leash attached to the chicken loop at all is for people doing unhooked moves that dont want to lose the kite if they crash. If it is just to be able to unspin the bar freely then what is the point of the leash at all.

My question is: Is there a way to have both? Being able to have your leashed attach to just one inside line (so you can dump all of the kites power by releasing your chicken loop QR) and also have the flexibility to unspin the bar after a kiteloop without the leash getting in the way?

-Justin

Justin,

I would put your question directly to the guys at Cabrinha. I have heard that attaching your leash to the reride ball up on the trim strap should be avoided UNLESS you want to solo land. This is a major departure from C kite practice. I was told that you should move your leash attachment to that point from chicken loop attachment for solo landing. Easier said than done with my shorter arms however. Have folks tried this routinely?

[ricki]

I just heard about another serious flat kite accident with an Instinct. It involved an intermediate kiter out in overpowered conditions with a 12 m kite. Other kiters were reportedly heavily powered on 9 m flat kites. The rider had come into shore, had fully pulled in his trim strap. The kite response to control inputs was reduced by this. The kiter sheeted out, stalling the kite following which he sheeted in. This action initiated a kite loop, pulling the helmeted kiter onshore with some force. He suffered some unspecified minor injury from this.

Kites may reduce response when the trim strap is fully pulled in although not unduly so, unless in marginal winds in my experience. If the response is too mushy, it may mean additional kite tuning is indicated along with line checking to verify that they are still of equal length. Kite lines will stretch out of uniform length as a matter of course, hence checking is always required. It is unknown what the exact cause was in this case. I understand without the helmet his injuries might have been more severe. Be sure to rig the size kite suited for the bottom to middle of actual winds. Avoid flying a kite at the upper limits of its wind range. Can you do it, sure you can but it is more work, less fun and your factor of safety if something goes wrong can be much less.

- So, don't rig too big,
- keep control particularly nearshore,
- test your kite in controlled circumstances in various trims,
- and wear a lid, like this guy did.

[ricki]

Let me see if I can summarize a general approach at this point for flat kites:

1. Carefully preflight, including making sure pulleys move easily and lines aren't worn, your leading edge, batten pressures are adequate, check proper attachment, run down the lines looking for twists, tangles, knots, wear/cuts, etc.. **

2. Make sure your helper/launcher knows what to do, signals for doing it and what to look for.

3. The pilot attaches his leash to the appropriate spot for his kite system for nearshore conditions. (read the manufacturers directions, try it out in lighter conditions, think carefully about how you are going to do this)

4. Both guys get in position, the helper picks the kite up and holds it. (I use one arm curved over my head in a "C shape" to signal this). Kite closest to the water is advisable in most but perhaps not all launch areas.

5. The pilot checks system, down the lines, makes sure the leading edge lines form a nice Vee, the trailing edge lines stay on the outside, bridles seem to be right and the kite has a proper shape.

6. The helper/launcher checks system, looks at all the bridles, makes sure the leading edge lines converge in a vee at the pilot, back lines stay outside, kite is shaped properly and feels like it "wants" to take off. If not, why not?

7. Pilot gives thumbs up, helper replies with thumbs up if appropriate other wise shakes head no or holds up a fist. The pilot can use these same signals, don't rely upon verbal communication. If the helper doesn't like the feel of things he can pop the kite over on the leading edge to deal with it. Nothing says he has to launch.

8. Helper starts to let kite go making sure it wants to fly and is ready to grab it if not. He DOESN'T throw it, drop it or watch it roll down the beach. He stays ready to help, waits to see that the kite is flying and pilot is moving on.

9. Pilot is ready/practiced to abort, sheet out totally, DON"T hold bar in too long. Spinning lines can disable depowering at times. Be ready and practiced to release your leash attachment to your body if necessary. Go over this stuff in advance to try to avoid FREEZING.

10. If your kite goes down, worse rolls, expect possible tangles and disabling of depowering. Be ready to react early.


This is detailed, then again many (most) accidents are caused lack of attention to detail. Use your head and have fun or risk using your melon for a doorstop and spend time in the ER and/or kite repair.

Most of this should be second nature to most kiters and experienced helpers. This isn't exhaustive, nor specific to all kite systems.


What have I left out that should be in a general checklist?


** More about flat or hybrid kite Preventive Maintenance (working to make stuff work better, longer) in the next SBC Kiteboard Magazine by the way.

[admin]

I just heard from another person that was in this accident. He was one of the other kiters that was hit by the rider as he was dragged along the beach. He made some good points.

Things like:

- Considering use of a leash attachment weak link

- Carrying and using knives when needed without delay (AND gloves)

- And one of my own, when lines are uneven in a traction kite, it will do the Corkscrew of Death.

The kite will usually relaunch repeatedly with slight pauses until something breaks or is released with the Corkscrew of Death. So, always EXPECT the kite to continue to power up after lulls if a bridle snags or breaks. More about this HERE (http://fksa.org/forumdisplay.php?f=29)


More details below.

He was rammed from behind by the rider as he was being dragged with quite a bit of force. Once he got back to his feet he had pulled out a knife to cut the lines of the kite. He carries a titanium dive knife having given up on rusting out hook knives. He had his hand over the kite lines and was ready to cut when guys yelled don't cut! He hesitated and then the kite powered up again, cutting this guys finger (the third finger injury in this accident) as the rider powered. It is true that at least two lines from one side of the kite, better more would have to be cut. Still, I was told that if the rider had been seriously injured, he never would have forgiven himself.

It was a new pressure treated 4" x 4" timber embedded in the ground that was broken by the riders shoulder. I was told that main reason it broken instead of the riders shoulder was that there was a knot in the timber at the sand line. The rider hit the timber low increasing the amount of force necessary to break it. Without the knot the rider could have been severely injured and a few inches over possibly killed. I don't think any of these guys wear helmets at this point.

The most important point he made was about the quick release attachment. He feels that it should be secured with a weak link that will set the kite free if there is a depower failure and the bar is dropped. I used to have a problem with C kite leash attachments that would pull free if the kite was released under fairly light winds. This was supported by the apparent infrequency of total depower failures with C kites. The risk ideally should stay with the kiter and not folks downwind. With flat kites I am not as sure at this point. There seem to be a variety of ways of disabling depowering leaving setting the kite free as the primary option. I am aware of cases where depowering was disabled while on the water and the riders had time and past practice to find and open the leash attachment. People don't practice like they should and on land you may not be able to reach or find the leash attachment in time. Perhaps manufacturers should think over a yielding leash attachment. Of course this creates potential issues with folks downwind.

FKA, Inc.

transcribed by:
Rick Iossi

[litewavedave]

Having a bow, SLE, SSLE, or Hybrid with a minimal bridle really lessens the liklihood of this happening. A bridle that hands 2' below the kite is much less likely to wrap (impossible) than one that hangs 5-6' below the kite.

I was just in PR, and the best wave rider on the island, Charlie, wouldn't ride a hybrid, SLE, etc because of the bridle-wrap problem which is more likely when riding waves and getting your kite washed.

When he rode my kite, he bought two. The SSLE style (GK-Trix) has a very minimal bridle that still affords 100% depower.

-LWD

[The Kite House]

i have been reading this and have to coment....ok, non bow kites, sle are basicly a c kite with a bridle, no swept trailing edge or contour, so yes they will get wraped and caught if you dont "pre flight check".....again pre flight check...not rush out...the stronger the wind the better the look you should take.....next waves in hard condtions wrap up kites, was just riding before waves way over head, crashed so did others, option one un hook if you are in big shit or have slack....number 2, after you crash, " try"to keep tension on the bar, the kite will stay taught because of the briddle....if you are being washed, un hook and get out.....all this is advanced stuff....you ride hard , you better know how to crash....c kite/ sle kite/bow /2 line what ever....Dave i saw one of you kites wrap hard in west palm in the waves....same as i have seen cabs slingshots..ect ....dont try to sell gear with people thinking your stuff will make them safer,..they need to think......people ride in condtions way over the head now, because the kites have a huge ranges, so know what to do before you go....Charlie has more to worrie about at shacks than the kite, that reef will kill you, he is good, but a good kite wont save a rider.....a smart rider will plan before the assault...

sorry for the rant, but i hate excuses, we all screw up.....just think about what you will atempt before you do it!

Aloha Paul

[firstcoastkite]

I have been watching this one as well, and it is an interesting topic. As an instructor, it is important to let students know that even though the new kite designs are safer, it doesn't mean that accidents won't happen. And, I agree with Paul, that you still have to be careful and aware, especially in hardcore conditions. It is always a great idea to practice self-rescue, and know your equipment. Also, practice your releases, whatever kite you use, and be able to execute your personal exit strategy at a moment's notice.

I have been flying the Ozone Instinct for almost a year now, which is a 5-line hybrid with no bridle. The kite does have a span line that goes between the wing tips, and I have had either the span line or a flying line get caught around the wingtip before, similar to what happened with this bridle. Luckily, I was in light winds, so no problem, but I can see where it could cause the kite to spin in windier conditions.

I read below where another rider had a problem with an Instinct. I have noticed that when the kite is completely depowered it does take alot of bar input to steer the kite. I agree that the kite should be used within it's wind range. While flat kites do depower more than traditional C-shape kites when sheeted out, if you come unhooked or the kite suddenly goes full power, they have substantially more power. It is also a good idea to hold the bar near the middle when on land to avoid sudden movements with the kite. If you are within the wind range of a particular kite, pulling the adjustment strap only halfway should be enough to sufficiently depower the kite and still give you plenty of kite control to steer. If you have to pull your depower strap all the way in, you are probably flying too big a kite for the conditions.

Oh, and by the way, Charlie is a great wave rider at Shacks in PR. But he is still the flying chicken, "Pollito", and I don't know if I would ask him for safety advice! He does have the record for most grabs and funky dance moves in a single jump though.